ACA JEWELLERY COURSE, WEEKS 11-15

STUDIO 1 – HANDSKILLS

with Regine Schwarzer

Our final two projects with Regine for this semester, a simple silver ring band and a stone setting project. The ‘Sun Pendant’ features a red stone, set on a brass shaped sun with an orbiting ring of silver behind, suspended with silver findings and PVC cord. The stone is set in a simple bezel setting, our first handmade setting for this diploma course.

simple silver band with pattern

‘sun pendant’ full view

‘sun pendant’ gem stone setting

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STUDIO 2 – CHAIN MAKING

with Gina Stuchbury

Our first task for this class was to form the previously made brass ingot into a specific square shape size profile. The first step was to reduce the rather thick ingot bar down in size via the square rolling mill, so it can be pulled through a draw plate. Pulling the metal through the reducing holes of a draw plate, will gradually change the shape with each pass. After each draw through, its advised to check the dimensions of the material before moving down another size hole, to ensure it matches the desired final specifications. It’s a pretty fun process, and there is a range of unique draw plate shapes available to change the profile of metal wire, for example triangular or star shapes.

ignot ready for rolling

drawing plates

the draw plate machine

ignot after rolling

first pass through the draw plate

final form of the square wire made from the ignot

I love square wire, and so decided to base my final project around using it. Through the development of my journal I created this design below using elongated rectangular links. Several sample lengths were made and created before committing to the final design of 17 links in sterling silver, plus a custom joining link. The wire was drawn down to the correct dimensions through the draw plate. The links themselves were made be joining two ‘L’ shape pieces together, then soldered to create the rectangular shape. The links were made in a production style workflow to be more time efficient, though i quickly discovered that making chains is a very time consuming exercise.

final project silver chain

designing links

creating test samples

drawing the square wire down in size

silver chain soldering

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STUDIO 3 – DESIGN/JEWELLERY DESIGN

with Melissa Puust

Our main project this term was to create a design for a real jewellery design competition. The competition had 2 categorises, one for commercial appeal and another for creativity. I was delighted to be informed later that I ranked 5th place for my entry in the commercial appeal category. I appreciate the received gift (a book of 500 ring designs) and encouraging feedback from the judges. Due to conditions of entry unfortunately i can’t include any pictures here of my design.

Link to competition: https://www.najo.com.au/blog/2016-Najo-Design-Competition
Results: https://www.najo.com.au/blog/design-competition-winner-2016

Our final project was to design a jewellery piece using objects found or recyclable. I came up with a concept using a redundant copper computer part, decorated with coloured resin to be worn as a pendant via an electrical cable.

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STUDIO 4 – CONTEMPORARY MEDIA

with Gina Stuchbury

Our final experimental technique for this class is patination which is a process of applying surface treatments to metal to achieve different effects. Below you can see the drastic change in the appearance of a piece of copper and brass that was packed into a container filled with sawdust mixed with a chemical solution, then left for an extended period of time. The 3rd picture below is made from heating the metal and painting it with copper nitrate whilst still sizzling hot, creating the aqua blue colouring. 

copper and brass samples

after sawdust treatment

treatment of Solution B

The below images were created from submerging our previously etched designed, into liver of sulphur solution. This creates a flat matt black coating which can be further enhanced as seen in the second picture, by removing or abrasively working the surface.

liver of sulphur treatment

abrasive effects add to the sample

Our final project was to choose one or more of the various processes we have used during this course to create our own designed jewellery object. The criteria was to design a piece for a famous person, fictional or otherwise, as if it would be presented to them. I had recently heard of some of Joan of Arc’s exploits and history, so i decided to design a piece for her.

The ‘Joan of Arc’ pendant below uses heat coloured titanium plates to both create a beautiful and battle ready level of durability. The gold coloured chain representing her purity of heart whilst the vibrant colours highlight her uniqueness and nobility. This object embodying both her beauty and strength, will look beautiful whether worn on or off the battlefield.

the finished Joan of Arc pendant on display

cutting the titanium pieces

titanium pieces laid out ready for heat colouring

heat colouring, so pretty

 

Otaku (オタク) notes:

Halfway though my first year at the Magic Academy, I have gained some valiant comrades and learnt much through this time or intense training. After various battles we will now retire for 6 weeks, whilst continuing to develop our own special techniques, to return even more powerful ready to start semester 2. During this time I will begin to create a new secret organisation, the likes of which the world has never seen.

ACA JEWELLERY COURSE, WEEKS 6-10

STUDIO 1 – HANDSKILLS

with Regine Schwarzer

Our first finished project for term 1, a pair of domed earrings made from sterling silver with a copper back piece. We recently learned how to dome metal and make our own earring hooks by hand.

domed earrings front view

domed earrings side view

back copper piece

STUDIO 2 – WAX AND CHAIN MAKING

with Gina Stuchbury

Wrapping up our major project for the wax making component of this subject, a disk shaped pendant below. We also completed the ring project by adding designed straight grooves. These items may later get cast in metal during the next semester’s casting class.

pendant front side

pendant back side

finished wax ring

The second major part of this subject began in week 9, chain making. We started off by melting down scraps of metal to cast into a brass ingot, which will later be formed down into square wire that could be used in a chain design. We also started making jump ring, which are often used in many jewellery applications. This subject of chain making is focused towards handmade artistic chain creations not the mimicking of manufactured chains. I am very proud of my perfect ingot below, since it took me 4 attempts.

perfected ingot

brass pieces

failed ingot

jump ring coil

STUDIO 3 – DESIGN/JEWELLERY DESIGN

with Melissa Puust

Continuing on with the design subject we completed our first project, a ring or bracelet drawing. We then took a complex shape and simplified it down into a new interesting form. All the pattern images below originated from a photo of a gecko.

 

ring practice sketches

bracelet design project

pattern project

pattern with texture

pattern examples

STUDIO 4 – CONTEMPORARY MEDIA

with Meghan O’Rourke & Gina Stuchbury

With Meghan we continued to experiment with various interesting techniques. We worked with perspex, forming it with heat and practised making cold connections using rivets to join two materials together.

perspex heat samples

riveting – front

riveting – back

Gina took over this subject at week 9 and we proceeded to create samples using the etching process with Nitric Acid and Ferric Chloride. Various ‘resists’ such as bitumen, gaffer tape and PNP paper are used to create patterns on the copper pieces. A ‘resist’ is simply a material which resists the etching solution, causing only the exposed metal surface to be eaten away by the solution as seen in the below images.

etching with gaffer tape

etching with PNP paper

etching with bitumen

Chuunibyou translation:

After numerous failed attempts i succeeded in melting down metal with the power of my mind. I had almost given up hope of perfecting the pouring technique, luckily Sensei Gina didn’t give up on me and through her help i was able to overcome this trial by activating the internal engine of peace within me. Only then was i able to form up a decent ingot using the molten metal crucible of destiny.

ACA Jewellery Course, Weeks 1-5

A review of the first 5 weeks of the Advanced Diploma of Jewellery and Object Design course at the Adelaide College of the Arts – TAFE SA.

Adelaide College of the Arts

my workspace for all subjects

Studio 1 – Handskills

On the 8th of February we began the first day of the course, Studio 1 – Handskills taught by Regine Schwarzer. In this course we cover basic jewellery skills, techniques and concepts.

Our first exercise was the correct use of the piercing saw. We transferred the provided design onto a test piece of aluminium and cut the required lines and shapes. This continued into saw piecing, filing and polishing of a brass letter. We were shown how to solder and produced a range of samples. We also learned the concept of pickling the metal after soldering to clean its surface, a common practice.

copper soldering practice samples

brass letter exercise

aluminium cutting exercise

This brass ring below began as a flat bar which was cut to size and bent into a rough ring shape. The ends were soldered and then the ring was hammered on a ring mandrel into a more perfected circular shape.

Studio 2 – Wax and Chain Making

The first 8 weeks of this subject with Gina Stuchbury is dedicated to the use of wax in the jewellery industry. The main reason for making a wax model is to cast objects into metal, which would have been difficult or impossible to make otherwise.

We have used 4 main types of wax:

• Carving Wax (hard wax)
• Modelling Wax (soft and mould-able by hands)
• Injection Moulding Wax (casting in clay)
• Sprue Wax (using a sprue gun)

Our first project was to make a ring in hard carving wax, and we are currently working on a wax pendent too. The carving wax can be cut, drilled and filed much like metal.

Studio 3 – Design/Jewellery Design

In this design subject we are working our way through the 5 elements of design:

• Line
• Shape
• Form
• Colour / Tone
• Texture

Here are some of the drawing exercises we have done in class with our lecturer Melissa Puust:

stylized lines drawn with a stick

wire earrings concept model

wire earrings design

using colour for focal points

Studio 4 – Contemporary Media

In this subject with Meghan O’Rourke we are learning about a variety of materials and techniques used in the jewellery industry. The main techniques we have experimented with so far are:

• Texturing Aluminium & Copper using rolling machines
• Texturing Aluminium & Copper using hammers, stamps & burrs
• Heat Colouring Titanium
• Colouring Titanium using the Anodising Process
• Colouring Aluminium using the Anodising Process

aluminium textured samples

copper textured samples

titanium heat coloured and anodised samples

anodised aluminium samples

 

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Chuunibyou translation:

After a rigorous selection process, I was accepted into the Magic Academy of Transmutation Alchemy in Sacred Metals (MATAM). My infiltration was successful, and my true identity has been concealed.

I will continue my training and grow in power till I am able to perfect our newly developed forbidden technique, of which I must speak no more lest the dark light prince catch on to what we are planning.